Almost everyone has
heard of a GFCI (Ground Fault Circuit Interrupter). These devices precisely monitor
the balance of electrical current moving through a circuit and immediately cut
off the electricity when a short occurs. For more on the basics of a GFCI see
our article on Ground Fault Interrupter Circuits.
Wiring a GFCI may vary
slightly from manufacturer to manufacturer, but for the most part they follow
the same general principles. We’ll try to simply and succinctly outline those
below so that you understand how to correctly connect a GFCI into your
electrical circuit and provide protection for an outlet or series of outlets
and fixtures.
About Ground Faults
Any electric path between a source
of current and a grounded surface is referred to as a “ground-fault.”
A ground-fault occurs when current is “leaking” and escaping to the
ground. How this occurs is significant in t hat, if your body provides a path
to the ground for this leakage, you could be injured, burned, severely shocked,
or electrocuted. Since water is such a good conductor, ground-faults are especially
common in areas where water can provide a conduit for electricity to
“escape” and find an alternate path to the ground.
A standard receptacle
can always be replaced with a GFCI receptacle and wiring it up is very
straightforward. This should go without saying, but always cut power to the
circuit (and verify with a circuit tester) before replacing an outlet. As shown
below, you simply wire the ground connection and then connect both the hot and
neutral wires to the GFCI’s LINE terminals as indicated to complete the
replacement.
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GFCI
receptacle – The LOAD terminals are only used if you are passing power through
the GFCI to protect additional receptacles downstream.
Diagram A – Connections
for LOAD and LINE circuits
Note: While you can opt for the less
expensive models, many 20A outlets will enable you to simply strip the ends of
the 12/2 wire and insert it into the back of the receptacle in order to make
the electrical connection. You then screw down the retention screws which
internally clamp down on the wire. Less expensive models will require you to
make a bend in the wire so that it may wrap around the outside screw terminal
and get locked in place in that manner.
When you replace a
standard receptacle with a GFCI, you can also protect any outlets or fixtures
which exist downstream from the GFCI. To do this you’ll need to use the LOAD
terminals on the GFCI which are typically covered by a yellow (or other color)
sticker.
GFCI
receptacle – The LOAD terminals are only used if you are passing power through
the GFCI to protect additional receptacles downstream.
Diagram B – Connections
for LOAD and LINE circuits
Ground Fault Circuit
Interrupters are critical in any home. If you are doing any rewiring or simply
updating your house to bring it up to code you should pay attention to where
GFCIs may be required. This is one of the least expensive things you can do to
provide an incredibly beneficial level of safety to your family. It is
important to understand exactly how the GFCI circuits can be wired
(specifically, the LOAD function). In this way you can protect entire areas
without having to replace each receptacle with the more expensive GFCI
versions.
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Can a load (water heater) be hard wired to the “load” side of a GFCI?
Yes, you can do this, however I’d recommend a non-outlet style GFCI and one that’s name brand (dependable). Wiring an external GFCI for a properly installed water heater hasn’t yet been made a requirement by the NEC code to my knowledge.